dimanche 9 mars 2008

Ardberg 10 ans et Pu erh Naku 2002

Lendemain de la tempête hivernale la plus intense de la saison. De l'après-midi jusqu'à la nuit de samedi, plus de 30 cm de neige sont "tombés" (plutôt soufflés tant les bourrasques de près de 100km/h empêchaient quiconque de voir à un mètre devant lui). Je suis resté à hiberner à l'intérieur de mon appartement ce jour là. Dimanche, tout était pétrifié. La ville complètement ensevelie dormait d'un dimanche pas comme les autres. Je dus affronter une congère d'un mètre de neige à la sortie de mon appartement, le trottoir était une dune... quelle aventure pour aller travailler! Le soir même, une dégustation thé et scotch était organisée chez mon collègue Sébastien qui, soit dit en passant, possède un sens de l'hospitalité incroyable. Tous les autres participants se sont désistés au dernier moment... trop de neige dans les rues de Montréal? Qu'est-ce qui aurait pu arrêter un fou passionné comme moi d'aller m'enivrer de ces philtres précieux? Tous les deux, après un met délicieusement relevé et accompagné de musique celte, nous avons entrepris notre dégustation:

PU ERH NAKU 2002 (Sheng): Compressé dans un bambou aromatique par les minorités Lahu, ce thé au caractère jambonneux et camphré ne me plaît pas particulièrement mais l'association avec un scotch puissant risquait d'être intéressant.
Palette aromatique: Vieux livre, fumée (camphrée), animal (charcuterie, cuir), légèrement sucré, amertume de l'anis et de la cannelle, graine de coriandre.

ARDBERG 10 ans, 46%, Islay:
Couleur: Paille clair
Nez: Beau bouquet aromatique sucré: anis, caramel écossais, vanille. Acidité fruitée (canneberge?). Notes médicamenteuses, naphtaline. Léger voile d'iode.
Texture: Mince à moyenne.
Bouche: Premièrement la douceur sucrée arrive sur la langue, réglisse, badiane. Puis survient des côtés jusque sur toute la langue une explosion surprenante d'acidité de fruit (kumquats ou tamarin, vinaigre balsamique) qui engourdit tout sur son passage. Arrive ensuite par le palais des notes plus boisées de noix grillées avant de fondre dans une amertume chocolatée parfumée de café et de santal. La finale doucement fumée aux notes de tourbe persiste fort longtemps, toujours avec une amertume délicatement chocolatée et une nuance saline.
Remarques: Très agréable.  C'est surtout son comportement en bouche qui m'a surpris, je ne m'attendais pas à ça.

ASSOCIATION: Bien, d'après moi, le caractère viande fumée des premières infusions du Naku 2002 ne s'accordaient pas très bien avec le fruit acide ou le boisé-chocolaté du Ardberg (même si il est lui-même fumé... pas de la même nature de fumée). Les dernières infusions du Pu erh avaient un certain fruité (prune blanche, groseille) qui pouvait alors mieux combiner, mais le thé démontrait une certaine fatigue et une dose d'amertume de tannins retardataires plus grossiers laissaient la bouche raide... ce qui n'est jamais bon, avec ou sans un scotch!

Le retour chez-moi dans les rues enneigées m'a paru comme un rêve. Tout était si froid et mon coeur si chaud! Les vapeurs des liqueurs dégustées émanaient encore de mes nasaux et se mélangeaient à l'air mordant et vif de la nuit, au fil des ruelles assoupies. 

317 commentaires:

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waouh sacha ! : marcher dans la neige après avoir degusté un bon ardbeg ! tu mes fais bien envie sur ce coup là...
ardbeg est réputé être le malt le plus riche en notes de fumée (qu'ils dosent en ppm - parties par million - ils communiquent là dessus...). Par rapport aux autres malts d'Isaly (lagavulin, bowmore...talisker...) que tu as pu déguster, que donne t-il ? Je n'en ai perso goûté qu'une fois, à un salon du whisky parisien, rapidement...
Mon préféré dans cet esprit - fumé, tourbé, medicamenteux- reste le Laphroig...Ton prochain Sacha sur ta liste de degustation !

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Mon bon Lionel, le Laphroaig reste indisponible au Québec depuis des lustres. Ici, les ventes d'alcool sont un monopole d'État. Encore pour les bières et certains vins on peut en trouver dans des petites et grandes surfaces ou "au dépanneur" (arabe du coin), mais jamais les spiritueux. Alors y faudra que j'attende ou que je fasse une commande internet pour ce cru, au risque de payer des taxes énormes!

Je n'ai pas trouvé au Ardberg plus de fumé que les 3 autres. Le Lagavullin est d'après moi plus soutenu dans sa fumée délicate mais persistante du début à la fin. Le Talisker a un fumé plus de l'ordre du plastique chauffé ou latex. Le Bowmore a une fumée en finale surtout, mais le fruité et le chocolat amer la rend secondaire. C'est vrai que le fumé du Ardberg est spécial par son équilibre, exactement présent au moment où la noix arrive après l'explosion de fruit acide. Je dirais que c'est la fumée stratégiquement la mieux placée, la transition y gagnant beaucoup dans la dégustation de ce scotch fort complexe. À regoûter ça c'est certain!

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Quel dommage que tu ne peux pas boire du Laphroaig! Une force, un parfum, une longueur en bouche... C'est mon whisky préféré.

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Hi Sacha,

Your blogs are very beautiful! Unfortunately I do not speak French, but the photos are wonderful!

Your tea friend!
Brett

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